DAY 8 - WAYFORD BRIDGE TO STALHAM 

Passing Hunsett Mill again

We couldn't face the ritual of breakfast without Janet or Mandy, when we woke at 7am this morning, we made do with tea, and got underway by 8. As I was going back under Wayford Bridge, I bumped straight into the boat moored directly on the other side, and kept bumping them as I tried to straighten up. As they came on deck, I manage to get clear, apologised quickly and was off downstream.



Moored back at Swan Quay

By the time I got back to the boatyard I was fully awake, and moored perfectly at Richardsons. I was so impressed on how quickly they handled our return, within 15 minutes we were free to go, and £65 richer with a refund on the fuel deposit. We had booked the taxi to Wroxham for 10:30, so we had over an hour to kill. I asked if we could have a look at a boat that I nearly booked, the Broads Sunset. It was in their platinum fleet, it was a bit bigger, but had 3 full double bedrooms, and a large kitchen with seating area.

Broads Sunset

The Sunset, was lovely, wooden floors, and televisions in two of the bedrooms. The reason I stuck with the Mars was because of size, I had wanted to pass under Potter Heigham bridge, but as you know that  never happened. I decided that I would book the Sunset if I ever came back to the broads. We had another cup of tea and a bacon roll at the refreshment van parked just inside the boatyard.

Waiting on the platform

Our taxi from Catfield taxis arrived, and we had a good chat with the driver, he was the same driver that took us to Hickling on Thursday night. He was from London, but had been in Norfolk for over 20 years, he gave us his card and said if we came back, book him for all our excursions, I have kept his card and will use him again.





He dropped us at Hoveton & Wroxham train station, where we had a long wait for the train, but it was a nice station, and a beautiful day. We got home around 7pm, Norfolk doesn't seem to be very well connect to the rest of the UK, probably just as well, as it's a very special place.

I was back just 3 weeks, before I had to book another week on the Broads Sunset in April. Watch this space.

DAY 7 - WOMACK WATER TO WAYFORD BRIDGE 



Sunlight on the Thurne

Sitting in the brilliant sunshine, eating breakfast with the canopy down, I felt like I could certainly have another week away. We watched the people on the next boat and tried to work out how was with who. Had a walk around the staithe, it seemed quite a nice place to moor, and I could see why it was so popular here. We had some time to kill this morning, as we were originally supposed to be setting out from Hickling, so we discussed whether to go see the offending bridge at Potter Heigham, but we decided to take a leisurely cruise back to the River Ant.





Approaching How Hill

I think today was the hottest day of the week, the water was sparkling, and we were soon passing St Bennetts Abbey, and then shortly after, passing under Ludham Bridge. It only seemed a day or two that we were passing under on the way down. There wasn't a lot of boats around this morning, as we made our way up the twisty River Ant, and before long we were moored up at How Hill. We had a walk around here, the tea rooms were closed, so we returned to the boat for lunch.




Aboard the Electric Eel

Toad Hole Museum

We left the Mars around two, and had a look around Toad Hole, the marsh man's cottage which is now a tiny museum, and very interesting. I had booked us all on the Electric Eel for 3pm, so we sat in the sun for half an hour and watched the boats go by. The boat was late, apparently the people on the previous trip had seen a Heron and stopped to take photos, but we were soon aboard the electrically powered boat, and heading through the reeds. It was a nice trip but we didn't get to see anything we hadn't seen already, very nice for dragonflies. After a visit to a bird hide we headed back, and we soon travelling upstream on the Ant. There were many boats crossing Barton Broad, and this time I managed to find the exit easily.


Leaving the reeds



Boats returning to boatyard

We were all pensive as we turned left towards Stalham, as very soon our group would begin to break up. We moored up at Richardsons, and helped Janet off with her case and into her car. The three of us then retraced our tracks back to the river,  and turned upstream. The river started to get narrow, and soon we were all taking picture of pretty Hunsett Mill, which is the most photographed mill on the broads. At Wayford Bridge there were no free moorings, so we went under the bridge and moored there. Shortly a strange woman, came up and asked for £8 overnight mooring fee, she could have been anyone, but we paid it.


Pretty Hunsett Mill

While we washed up, Janet came on board, she had parked in the Wayford Bridge Hotel car park, as she was heading Durham after dinner so she could make the cricket the following day. We walked up to the hotel for a very nice dinner, the £8 mooring ticket got us a few pounds off the restaurant bill.


Upstream of Wayford Bridge

It was getting dark as we left the hotel, we said our goodbyes to Janet and Mandy, and waved them off. The boat seemed very large and very quite when we got back aboard. We decided to pack in the morning, on the way back to the boatyard, which was about 45 minutes away. After tea and some television, we turned in. I really wasn't ready for home.

DAY 6 - THURNE TO WOMACK WATER 



Ponies and Donkeys

I had taken pain killers sometime in the night, and so woke up late, everyone had left the boat and were looking at the ponies and donkeys in the next field. Went up on deck and it was a glorious day already hot, blue sky with just a few Mare's tail clouds overhead.






While having breakfast I called the pilot at Potter Heigham, and was told that there was no way that we could get under the bridge today, apparently there had been a storm off the coast of Aberdeen, which resulted in high water in Norfolk. The pilot seemed to think that this explanation ended all discussion, I guess it did. We had expected to explore the upper reaches of the Thurne today and overnight at Hickling, where our evening excursion was booked.

Racing Down the Upper Bure

We looked over the map, and decided to go look at Acle, then come back and moor at either Potter Heigham, or Ludham. I was given the job of getting the boat out of the narrow dike, which was facing the wrong way, and after a few attempts, and several angry fishermen, we were on our way to Acle. The reeds just flashed by as we were now allowed to travel at 6mph, the river really widened out, and we were soon under Acle bridge. We moored by Acle dike, and could see the town across a large field, my leg was at it's worse today, so I decided to remain behind and rest it. And so Janet and Mandy were soon tramping through the long grass.


Womack Water

Paul and I had a cup of tea, and caught up with celebrity big brother, it seemed a very short time, before the girls were back on board. They weren't that struck by Acle, but had bought some presents, and some chocolate. We turned around and were soon back on the river Thurne, turning left down Womack Water.


Busy Womack staithe

The staithe at Womack Water was very pretty and also very busy, there were no moorings at all, so we prepared to cruise up to Potter Heigham, when Janet suggest we moor at the adjacent boatyards moorings to fill up with water. The lad there said we could overnight there if we paid the mooring fee of £4, which we happily paid. We had lunch in the sunshine, and watched the family on the boat adjacent.

Pretty Ludham Village

We had a few hours to kill until the taxi turned up, so we took a walk into Ludham. It was a very pleasant walk to the village, and Ludham is very pretty, we explored the church, churchyard and village shops. We went into a gift/hardware/antique shop, and I bought a walking stick for £5.50, what relief to be able to lean on something, and I made my way back to the boat slightly quicker than the outward journey.


Walk from Womack Water




Up To The Tree Tower

The taxi turned up at 5pm, which was very comfortable as it was a mini bus, we booked the return taxi for later that evening. We were dropped of at the Pleasure Boat, Hickling, and the tour looked full. While getting ourselves settled in the tour boat, the girl from the pub came out to take our orders for dinner, and then we were soon crossing Hickling broad. Our first stop was the tree tower, which is the metal staircase, leading up above the treetops, to a large viewing platform. The view was spectacular, looking out over the broads, all the way to Horsey and onto the sea. Would have liked to have spend longer up there, watching the sunset.


View from Viewing Platform

Once back at the boat, we headed through the reed beds to two bird hides, we finally got back to the broad at about 7:10pm, and the evening was setting in. As we recrossed Hickling broad, the sun was just setting, and all the waterfowl took flight as we passed them, the silhouette of the birds against the beautiful sunset was truly magical. We were taken to our table in the pub, and given a drink of our choice, and the meals we chose before the tour. The whole evening cost for the 2 hour tour, meal and drink was just £20, and if you are in Hickling on a Thursday evening in summer, I would really urge you to join this memorable tour.


Sunset Crossing Hickling

What Sight!

After a very satisfying meal, we were called outside to the taxi, and taken back to the Mars, and I booked the taxi for our journey to the train station on Saturday. It was pitch black at the boat shed, and had to use torches to get back to the boat. Tomorrow was our last full day on the broads.

DAY 5 - COLTISHALL TO THURNE 



Leaving Coltishall

Both Janet and I were up early this morning, after coffee we were away at 7am, we planned on getting under the bridge as soon as the pilot started work at 8:30. The river was deserted, which may have been why we had around 15 sightings of Kingfisher, flying directly downstream or perched on the overhanging branches.


Plenty of Birds on the quiet River

Retracing our way past Wroxham

We got to Wroxham bridge, and Janet moored the boat. I called the pilot as I was getting off the boat to tie up, my foot went down between the bank and the boat. I threw myself forward to avoid getting crushed, but my leg was caught, and the boat continued backwards. I felt my legging bending to the side, it was agony, but I managed to kick the boat forward, and pulled myself free. I thought it was broken, but I could move my toes, and after a few minutes I managed to get to my feet.



Pass the Southern Comfort.........

Back on board and poor Janet was looking sick and worried, but she actually saved my leg by killing the engine. I called the pilot and he came down, he was laughing, he had heard me falling and guessed what happened, he took us under the bridge and we pulled in to a boatyard, for water and a pump out. Paul and I treated ourselves to boatyard hot showers and returned for breakfast.



.... and The Albion

The River was busy as we retraced our route, at Horning we saw the steamer Southern Comfort, and further downstream we passed the Albion wherry. We decided to have a tea break with the carrot cake we bought in the deli, so we went down to Malthouse broad, and mud anchored, the cake was delicious.



South Walsham Broad Between Cottages

From there it was a short cruise to Fleet dike, which connects the river to South Walsham broad and village. We moored and tried to text Mandy to see what train she was catching from London, as she had to work in the morning. I had to walk down to the road to get a signal, and found out that Mandy had caught the coach, and was in Norwich. She then text to say she had caught a local bus to South Walsham, so we agreed to meet in the village.



Pretty homes Around South Walsham

I thought that I should exercise my leg so it didn't seize up, god knows what made me think that, but I was convinced. We locked up the boat and set off for the village, which was over a mile away, my limping got so bad, we had to send Paul ahead to meet Mandy, in case she got there before us. Janet and I were just coming into the village when a bus rounded the corner, and there was Mandy waving from the window. Janet went on to the village to bring Paul back, and I met Mandy off the bus, we went to a nearby cafe and ordered tea for everyone.

We sat and exchanged gossip for about an hour, and made our way back to the boat, the walk was really pretty, with lots of thatched cottages along the way. It was 4:30 by the time we got back to the boat, and I suggested that we overnight at Thurne, as I had heard that the Lion Inn was a good pub for food, and we thought we should cruise a little while for the benefit of our new passenger.



Treeless River Bure

It took us just under an hour, and the landscape changed drastically, as in Coltishall there were dense trees, and bushes, while downstream from Fleet dike, it was almost treeless, and it showed just how flat Norfolk is. The dike at Thurne, was narrow and well lined with boats, but we got a space. I went to rest my leg, and Mandy and Janet went to get reservations at the Lion. They returned with a huge menu, so many dishes to choose from, we couldn't make a reservation, but there was a quiz night in the pub that night.







A Fun Night At The Lion

The Lion Inn was an old Victorian building, full of atmosphere, the landlord was fantastic, making everyone feel welcome. The food was very very good, simple but huge potions. The quiz was great fun, the landlord keeping everyone on their toes. Mandy answered most of the questions, and our table won, our prize a box of celebration. We had a great night, and had to return to the Mars by torchlight, for tea and chocolates.

DAY 4 - WROXHAM TO COLTISHALL 



Finally Under The Bridge

Was up and about early, we moved the boat down to the pilot moorings, called the pilot, and he arrived within 10 minutes. He moored us on the other side of the bridge, and told us about Coltishall, he said that the Kings Head was probably the better to the two pubs there for dinner. We asked him about getting under Potter Heigham bridge, he said it might be possible as the weather had been so good this week. I called the pilot at Potter, and he said that there wouldn't be a problem getting under, so we were back on track.



Hoveton Hall Gardens

While having breakfast we talked over our plans for the morning, the choice was; a steam train to Aylesbury, a visit to Wroxham Barns craft centre or a walk around Hoveton Hall Gardens. I didn't really relish the barns, and Paul and Janet both voted for the Gardens. We walked around to the Wroxham visitor centre, and called a cab. Ten minutes drive and we were there.



Spider Gate

The Gardens are really well tended, we went first into the Spider Garden, where the cottage of the gardener was situated. It was a walled garden, with beautifully laid out beds, teeming with butterflies, a really lovely spot. We walked through some terraces and found ourselves in the herbalists garden. All the plants there were labelled with their uses and what each plant was used to alleviate, it was really interesting.


Water Gardens

Arches to the Herbalists Garden

We left the walled gardens, and followed a trail of toadstools to the water garden, which was renowned for their Rhododendrons, it was a shame the they weren't in flower at this time of year as they would have been spectacular. Then onto the greenhouses, which were full of geraniums, and we made our way back to the entrance. The day was even hotter than yesterday, so we sat in the courtyard, and had a cream tea. Janet bought a shrub, and we got a cab back to the Mars. We went into Wroxham and bought some provisions, and realised it was time to set off, as it was after 2pm.


Walking Through the Greenhouse

Upstream from Wroxham

The journey upstream was very pretty, plenty of secluded properties along the banks, and the river very peaceful, as not too many boats venture under the bridge. We had hoped to make a stop at Belaugh, which is on one of Norfolk's few hills, but although there were four moorings at the staithe, two boats had moored up so badly, that there was no way we could stop.








Coltishall Common

We arrived at Coltishall just after 4pm, it is very peaceful, the staithe was by the side of a big common, where families were playing games or just strolling around. There were two big pubs and a shop, after the bustle of Wroxham, the peace was very welcome.





I felt like a walk around so I went up to the two pubs, and checked their menus. Both pubs looked really good, but the Kings Head looked a little different, they didn't do just Pub Grub, I went inside and it looked really nice, so I booked a table for 8pm.

Kings Head

We had such a great meal, the food was excellent, the two ladies that were working there seemed to have a real passion for food. They have a full dinner menu, but were great when we told them that we didn't want the full dinner experience. Even a simple dish like sausage and mash was very special, with crispy fried onions, and a red wine gravy, it was delicious. They brought little taster plates around so we could try some of the other things they had cooked. We had desserts which were just to die for, this was by far the best meal I had on the holiday, it was really reasonable. I would make the journey up to Coltishall just to eat at the Kings Head. Please consider it if you are thinking about going to Coltishall, I will certainly revisit in April.



Dusk at Coltishall

It was pitch black when we came out, and had to use our torches to cross the common and find the Mars. We decided to leave early in the morning as we were back tracking down the River Bure and beyond, so we decided to aim to get back to Wroxham at 8:30, so we would have no problem getting under the Bridge. Had a cuppa and watched some TV, and turned in relatively early.

DAY 3 - HORNING TO WROXHAM 



 

Horning - Early Morning

Was rocked awake, and thought to myself, that will be a speedboat, but then realised that with a speed limit of 6mph, that a speedboat was pretty unlikely. I went for a walk before breakfast, and saw a lady in the butcher making sausages, came back with 3 each, lunch sorted.



The Deli & Post Office at Horning

After breakfast I returned to the village with Janet, I left her at the Deli and popped in the post office, and got some money from a very cheerful post master, so much more pleasant than an ATM machine. Rejoined Janet in the Deli, and bought, bread, cheese and carrot cake. Walking back we both agreed that the owner had created the perfect village Deli, but we thought she might be so precise on how her shop was run, that she would be a nightmare to work for.

Salhouse Broad

We pushed off at 10am, as we had a tour booked at Salhouse for 11am, and our map indicated that it would take 40 minutes to reach the broad. We got moored on time and went to look for Toby the ranger. We found him, he being interviewed by the local TV news, about the murder yesterday. So we were taken by boat to the Hoveton Great Broad Nature Trail, by Holly his assistant. The trail took us about 90 minutes and included two great bird hides, and views over Hoveton Broad. I highly recommend this, if you are in the vicinity, it is free if your moor up yourself, or £3 per person for the ferry from Salhouse Broad.



Ice Cream Boat

On the way back, we spotted the Ice Cream Boat, and as the weather was now nothing short of HOT, we treated ourselves. I also bought Holly one too, and she was very grateful. The Ice Cream was delicious, and so novel to get it from a boat. While we all ate the cones, Holly gave us a tour of Salhouse Broad, which was great, as we saw, lots of baby Grebes with their parents.



Woodbastwick Green & Church

Salhouse Broad is the smallest and prettiest broad we saw, that the sun was so hot, children and parents were paddling and sunbathing. As suggested the couple we met at Ranworth yesterday, we decided to visit the village of Woodbastwick. Holly gave us directions, and we were there within 25 minutes.



The Garden at The Fur & Feather

We had a drink in the lovely gardens of the Fur and Feathers pub. Then had a look around the local brewery shop, Janet bought some souvenir beer for her son, and we continued down to the village green, with a well house in the middle. We visited the beautiful church, and made our way back to the boat, and made the most of the water hose to top up the water tank.




It was after 3pm when we left Salhouse Broad, and we were behind schedule, it, was about an hour to Wroxham, where we planned to get a pilot to take us under the bridge there, and then another 90 minutes to our ultimate destination, Coltishall.

Approaching Wroham Bridge

Wroxham looked familiar as we approached, we had been viewing the Wroxham Hotel webcam for weeks, to get an idea on the weather. Wasn't sure where to go for the pilot, there were a number of boats behind us, so I couldn't slow down, and before I knew it I was at the bridge. I had to pull over hard to stop the boat going through unpiloted, and was stuck at the side of the bridge, looking beached. I phoned the pilot who said it was no go for today, that he could get us under in the morning.


I had forgotten that it was Coltishall and NOT Wroxham that isn't tidal, so our plans were foiled, I turned the boat, went downstream, and returned back looking for a mooring. The two east end couples from the New Inn called to us, they were moored at the cafe, next to the hotel and we were soon moored next to them. I went into the cafe to pay for the nights mooring, £10 a night was a bit steep, but what could we do.

Had to rethink our plan for the week, was tempted to forget Coltishall, but decided there were other places we would rather miss, so we decided to pass under the bridge as soon as the pilot started work, moor on the other side, and do something around Wroxham in the morning, and continue up to Coltishall in the afternoon.



The Bridge Fish Restaurant

Plans made we sat on deck, enjoying the late afternoon sunshine and watching the world go by, including other boats hoping to go under the bridge. That evening we decided to let our hair down in the capital of the broads, but unless you were called Roy there wasn't much to do. We had a tasty Fish Meze in The Bridge restaurant, crab, lobster, scampi, king prawns, it was delicious with great friendly service. Short walk back to the Mars, and we were soon fast asleep, after a long hot day on the broads.

DAY 2 - GAY'S STAITHE TO HORNING 

Woke up to a lovely clear morning, it was so peaceful outside. I was the first to try the shower, and wasn't looking forward to it, after reading +Sally Ann's shower review on the Mars. It turned out quite well, I had always expected to hold the shower head over my head, and also had to get used to continually pumping the water out every so often. I emerged, clean and satisfied, I think the review made me expect the very worse. I did however use all the hot water, I think that was because we only had the engine running for about an hour the previous evening.




Pleasant Neighbours At Gays Staithe

We filled up with water and had breakfast, Des from the boatyard advised us to keep the engine running awhile to heat the water and to charge the battery for the fridge. And as the other two wanted showers we left the engine running while eating breakfast. We were wondering why the people on two other boats were looking over at us. Finally a very unfriendly man from a hunter came over asked us to turn the motor off, because we were disturbing the peace. The look on his face, suggested that we were tipping toxic waste into the water. I turned the engine off and explained what we had been told at the yard. He very rudely said we be charging the battery when we motored off. I replied that were we come from, people like to shower in hot water in the morning, he just stalked off muttering.



Finally Leaving Barton Broad

I waved to him as we left, and we returned to Barton Broad, I turned right and couldn't find the exit to the river, and had to turn and go back and follow the boats crossing the broad to find the Ant. After dealing when suicidal canoeist, and a murderous Wherry crashing into us, even after pulling the boat over into the bushes, we reached Ludham Bridge, and sailed under with ease. Got to the River Bure, and talked Paul into taking over, as he had been telling me how useless I was. He did okay and I congratulated him on keeping the boat in the dead centre, no matter what was coming the other way.


Following video

clip supplied courtesy

of  The Captain's Blog, 

it shows us lowering the

windscreen for passage

under Ludham Bridge.

Malthouse Broad From Church Tower

I no time we were crossing Malthouse Broad, where there were no moorings left, so I took over, and showed everyone what a city boy could do. I did the Friday Afternoon at Sainsburys Carpark Act, and got the next available mooring. Got chatting to a couple who had a modern Hunter, and they told us where we should not miss, most places were already on our plan, but they suggested Woodbastwick. Decided to have a look tomorrow.




At The Top Of St Helens

We walked down to St Helens church, had a looked round and climbed the tower, really good view, the sun was out, and the day clear, we could see Norwich cathedral in the distance. Walked down to the boardwalk, and walked around to the visitor centre. After a coffee, we took the electric boat back to the staithe. Bought some jam, marmalade, shortbread and a lovely souvenir book. We had our lunch on board and pushed off, The weather was now very warm, as we continued upstream, and enjoyed looking at some of the lovely properties on the approach to Horning.



Moored At The New Inn

We had a mooring booked at the New Inn, and I pulled right into the only spot left. The pub attendant Gus, asked me if I had a booking, and I said yes, that I had got confirmation from Anne. When I said Anne, he said okay, but he hadn't been told that the Mars was booked in, but if I had arranged it Anne must have overlooked it. There was a table with 2 couple having a drink, and they asked me how long I had been boating, I told him it was my first time since childhood. They said they have been coming to the broads every year, and had never seen a first time more so well, which made my head swell.



Paddle Steamer At Horning Green

We took a walk around Horning, and most of the shops were closed, but they looked great. We sat on the bench by the Swan Inn and watched the paddle boat, leaving. We were told that a hire boat had been found tied to a bush near Salhouse Broad, it had a sleeping teenage girl on board, and her mother and mother's boyfriend have been found dead in the water, and that the river had been closed, and nobody could travel upstream from Horning. I sent an email and a text to Toby, the ranger at Salhouse, as we had booked a trip with him for tomorrow, and said that we could be stuck, and not reach him.

As we were getting ready for dinner, I got a text from Toby, saying that the river had just been reopened, and that he would see us tomorrow. Had dinner in the New Inn, sat on the veranda, and ordered some lovely steaks. As I was ordering, I got speaking to Anne, who told me that they thought the dead lady had been murdered by her boyfriend, who either drowned or killed himself. We went on to talk about the booking, and she said she had no booking for us. I showed her the email she sent me on my phone, but she pointed out that I had requested the 2nd of August, not the 2nd of September. She said it was okay as some bookings hadn't made it, as the river had been closed off all day. Went back to the boat, full and content, and looking forward to the next day.