Saturday 12 October 2013

Day 8 - RANWORTH TO ACLE 


We were up early, had tea and toast, and packed up. We set off at about 8:30 and motored the short distance back to Acle Bridge. The weather was a lot better, still overcast, but the storm was definitely over. We pulled in and disembarked, had a quick chat with the friendly guy who handed over to us. He told us to enjoy our last cup of tea, as the boat wasn't going out that day.
Back At Horizon Craft
We got about half our fuel deposit back, and one of the guys took us in the minibus, up to Acle station. Ten minutes later we were on a train, returning to Norwich. We reached the station before 10am, but our train to Manchester wasn't until one.
Waiting for the Minibus
Although we had to take the case with us, we jumped on a bus heading for the city centre. I had read that the Elm Hill part of Norwich was interesting, and a lady passenger told us when to get off. Elm Hill is the old quarter of Norwich, with interesting shops and windy cobbled streets.
Elm Hill
We made for a tea shop, and bought some toasted cheese bagels, and carrot cake, and had a delicious brunch. We walked around the Elm Hill area, and crossed the river a few times. We decided to return to Norwich the next time on the broads.
Interesting Shops
Hard Going Wheeling a Case Around
After a good walk around Elm Hill, we emerged from the warren of old twisty streets into the marketplace. The time was getting on, we caught the bus back to the station, with half an hour to spare before the long journey home.
Norwich Market
A few weeks home, we booked the week after Easter, on our first boat, the Broadland Mars. Counting the days!

Friday 11 October 2013

Day 7 - SALHOUSE BROAD TO RANWORTH 

I slept much the same as the previous evening, every time I woke the wind was howling, and the water was smacking the hull. If anything it was worse because we were more unsheltered on a broad than on the river. When I got up I noticed that the boat was back on the pilings, and on further inspection the post that Tobi had tied us to had broken off in the night. It was still tied to the line and floating in the water, we were being held by just one rope.
No Better The Next Morning
We had a few cups of tea, as the wasn't any food for breakfast, and decided that we had to move somewhere else, so we could eat. The river was still very quite, and although it wasn't raining the air was damp and miserable. We decided to try and stop in Horning, but both the village green and the public staithe were full, but their was some spaces at the New Inn.
Approaching The Swan
Over the last two days we had been switching control from the upstairs helm to the inside helm, and back again. As a result the switching lever was jammed, and the reverse wasn't engaging the upstairs helm, so stern on moorings were out of the question.
Ranworth Dam
Therefore we pushed on down river, the rain was showing no signs of letting up. The wind wasn't so strong as yesterday, and there were very few boats on the river. We turned down Ranworth Dam to see if there were any spaces at the staithe. Luckily only half the spaces were taken, leaving plenty of room for mooring. I used the inside helm, and stuck my head right out the window, the mooring was a lot easier than I thought.
Crossing Malthouse Broad

We hit the shop, and bought a few necessities, but decided to try the Maltsters for hot food. The barmaid said that we would have to wait half an hour for the chef to come on duty. We had a couple of capuchinos while we waited. At twelve, we ordered cheese and bacon croissants with chips, they were delicious, worth starving ourselves beforehand.
Moored At Ranworth
A Welcome Sight
We quickly decided to book a table for dinner that night, as neither of us felt like cruising about for the rest of the day. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing on the boat, having short walks around Ranworth, and looking around the shops on the staithe.
Looking Across Malthouse
That evening we returned to the Maltsters, for our last meal of the holiday. Pea and Ham Soup, followed by a big rump steak with mushrooms, onion rings, salad and chips. On the way back to the boat, both the wind and rain had died down, but we still went to sleep with the now familiar BOOM BOOM BOOM.

Thursday 10 October 2013

Day 6 - COLTISHALL TO SALHOUSE BROAD 


I remember waking up a few times in the night to a boom BOOM, which was the water hitting the hull of the boat, I could also hear the rain and the wind. When I awoke in the morning things had quietened down, but everywhere was soggy and the skies didn't look promising.

Leaving Coltishall
I walk across the green to the post office to get some milk, and as I passed the Kings Head I could see the other boaters from the staithe having breakfast. It certainly seemed a cheery place, and I will remember it for the next time we are in Coltishall.
Clouding Over
It still wasn't raining when we set off, and we made good time, although the skies were still very depressing. We moored up at Wroxham, and I called the Pilot. He sounded a bit doubtful. and asked me for the boats Air Draft, which has never happened before. When the pilot arrived he had 5 other guys with him, he said it was to weigh the boat down, as the water levels had risen in the night. It must have worked as getting under the bridge seemed easy.
Rain in Wroxham
I asked him if he could moor us up in the boat yard as we wanted to visit Wroxham and then go onto Wroxham Barns, but he said that the boatyard was full. By now the rain was pelting down, the wind had really picked up, the boat was being blown all over the river. We decided to push on downstream, and abandoned our planned visit to Wroxham.

The wind got worse just past Wroxham Broad, driving the rain into my face, luckily the boat had a dual cockpit and I had to steer the boat from inside. The rain was making visibility almost non existent, so once at Salhouse Broad, we decided to wait out the storm.
Trying to Moor at Salhouse
Going across the broad we noticed the strength of the wind, once out of the protection of the trees. Trying to moor stern on here was impossible, a lady and her daughter tried to tie us up stern on, but the wind caught the boat and pushed it round so that we could only moored alongside. As there weren't many boats moored here, we guessed it would be okay.

We had some tea and toast, and decided not to attempt the rivers in this storm. If the winds didn't quieten down, we would stay put for the night. I had a shower, and put on some clean dry clothes. I knew there was a shop in the village of Salhouse, which was about 30 minutes walk away.  In case we were there all night, I decided to have a walk and get some supplies. But before I had even reached the footpath in my new jeans, I slipped over and got covered in thick mud.
Muddy Banks At Salhouse
It took about 35 minutes, the footpath and road gave shelter from the wind and rain, and the lanes looked over some pretty fields. The shop however was very low on stock, and I ended up buying just milk, but I could have purchased a cuppa soup, a hairbrush or a newspaper. I passed a couple who were moored up near us, they were on the way to the Bell pub. They were already regretting leaving their boat, I think the pub was about another 10 minutes on from the shop.
Good Job I Wasn't Hungry
Walking down the footpath, I saw Tobi the Salhouse ranger, and he asked me if I was the one in charge of Glistening Horizon. He wanted to move the boat so that it was stern on, where we had moored the pilings were very weak. I told him that the wind was too strong to moor stern on, but he was welcome to try.

When we got back to the boat he tried to pull the boat into position, and I used the engine to help. We managed to get the boat off the pilings, but it certainly wasn't stern on, but
somewhere in the middle.

That night we didn't fancy the walk to the Fur and Feather for dinner, all we had in was toasted teacakes, which was nice with a cuppa. We settled down for the night with the wind still howling and the water slapping loudly against the hull.

Wednesday 9 October 2013

Day 5 - SOUTH WALSHAM TO COLTISHALL 


Overcast Skies at South Walsham
The staithe was a lovely peaceful place to wake up in, I put the kettle on and wandered around to Marine Tech, which is the only place I could get a signal to send a few emails. There was nobody in sight all along the staithe when I got back, and the sky was very overcast.
Pretty Properties on the Outer Broad
Behind Kingfisher Cottage
After breakfast, we cast off, and had a motor around the broad. There were a few boats on the outer broad, but nobody in sight on the inner broad, so we stopped at the entrance and looked for wildlife. Wasn't sure if pleasure craft was still allowed on the inner broad, and there was nobody around to ask.
Inner Broad
We motored back up Fleet Dike, we were now headed back to Horning. The river was the quietest I'd seen it, and there were still spaces on the village green as we passed by. Once passed Salhouse Broad, I noticed that there was a line of boats all following each other. I thought that most of these boats would be stopping in Wroxham, as very few boat actually pass under the bridge, but when we reached Wroxham, all the boats in front formed a queue for the pilot.
Approaching Wroxham
Enough Headroom
Pretty Wroxham Home

Their were three boats abreast in front of me and another to moored at the pilot station, all waiting for the pilot. The wind had really picked up, so it was hard to stay stationary without being blown into the day boats that were moored by the hotel. After about half a hour of waiting we finally got under the bridge and the pilot moored us. We walked round to the tourist office and made enquiries about Wroxham Barns, which sounded like something to do the next day. We were fully stocked up with food for the day, so we missed Roys with the intention of shopping there after Wroxham Barns. We had a look around some of the other shops, and returned to the boat for lunch.
Wroxham Gridlocked
Queueing for The Pilot

As we cast off the sun came out, and we cruised upstream at a leisurely pace. This is our favourite stretch of the broads, as it becomes so scenic and peaceful. This time we didn't see a sole, even the tiny staithe at Belaugh was deserted.
The Sun Back Out
Get The Weather Forecast From The Ducks
No One At The Staithe
Prettiest Stretch Of River
Nearing Coltishall

There was only a few boats moored on the green at Coltishall, and we saw the man we were chatting to in Wroxham while we were waiting for the pilot. I had wanted to go as far as Coltishall Lock, so I could claim that I had reached the limit of navigation of the river Bure. However, as we weren't going to get up the Thurne beyond Potter, I didn't see the point. I got just past the pubs, and turned around and moored her up close to the Rising Sun.
Passing The Pubs
Turning the Boat

We locked up, and as we were crossing the green, the clouds suddenly appeared, thick and black, and the temperature dropped quite noticeably. We were planning a walk into Coltishall village, which is a lovely walk, but the weather changed so quickly we decided against it, and made for the Kings Head to book our table for the evening. We walked onto the post office to get some milk and teacakes, it started to rain on the way back to the boat.
The Skies Darken & Air Gets Cold
We're Staying Right Here On The Common
We had another meal in the Kings Head that night, fish cakes to start and our favourite sausage and mash as a main, nobody makes it better than they do here, and we sat at a lovely table next to the window. It was quite cold as we walked back to the boat, it had been on the local news earlier that a storm was on the way. I never really believed it, as we have always had wonderful weather in Norfolk, but it was looking like the forecast might be right at last.
Our Last Bit Of Blue Sky

Tuesday 8 October 2013

Day 4 - WOMACK WATER TO SOUTH WALSHAM 


Was awake early this morning, so I took advantage of the pleasant weather and strolled halfway to the village, and sat on a bench under an oak tree for awhile. When I got back to the boat, Paul was up and making tea. I used the hose pipe, and let the water tank fill up while having breakfast.
Ludham Early Morning

We set off soon after, and returned to the river, this time turning left into unexplored territory. The river was just as wide, and there was nothing really to look at, so I had a quick shower. When I got back on deck, we were passing holiday cottages on both sides of the river.
Cruising Womack Water
Approaching Potter Heigham

I asked Paul if he had seen any of the cottages with a Westie  dog, he said he hadn't, then a few minutes later he spotted one. There was a lady sitting on her porch with her dog, and she was looking at me, and she seemed to know who I was. It was Sally-Ann from broadlandholidays. It was really good to finally get to say hello, as we have been in Norfolk on the same weeks, but never managed to cross each-other's paths.
The Infamous Bridge
Exploring Potter Heigham

We were now in Potter Heigham, and approaching the infamous bridge, but there wasn't a single space on the river, so I turned the boat and reluctantly returned downstream. As we were passing Sally-Ann's cottage, she suggested that I moor in Herbert Woods boatyard. I did another U-turn, and entered the boatyard. It seemed very busy, but there were quite a few spaces and I chose a space on the end.
Safely Moored at Herbert Woods

We walked into the village proper and bought ice creams in the little post office, and walked back to the bridge area. The first port of call was Lathams, which seems to sell everything, with plenty of bargains. We bought some cheese, rolls and cakes for lunch, and had a good look around at other items on offer, it was very busy and everyone seemed to be buying. We looked around and crossed the bridge, before walking back by the boatyard for lunch.
Looking Down River
Watching The World

Sally-Ann must have gone out, as her cottage was locked up as we passed it. It was a very pleasant cruise back down the River Thurne, and as we passed the white windmill, marking Thurne Dike, it was with regret that passed by. We were not stopping there this time, no Lion pub and no pub quiz.
Nobody Home At Water's Edge

Passing Thurne

We were soon back on the Bure, and as we approached St Bennett's Abbey, we turned down Fleet Dike, and moored as near to South Walsham broad as we were able. We tied up, locked up and set off on the long walk towards the village. There are two broads making up South Walsham broad, the inner and outer broad. The outer broad has some lovely properties around them, which it why there are no public moorings here, while the inner broad in a nature reserve and therefore out of bounds. You have to walk around both broads to reach the village, so it takes a over an hour to reach. The walk is very pretty, and you have to walk across a farmer's field at one point.
Passing Pretty Cottages

Our first stop was Fairhaven Water Gardens which was just before the actual village. We spent a very pleasant hour of so walking around the gardens, which consisted of an number of overgrown streams that feed into South Walsham broad. There were plenty of huge trees and plants, that seemed somehow prehistoric, and in some parts the water garden was like a jungle. We sat down by the lake, where they run boat trips onto the broad. We were told that there was an otter around, but we never saw it. We made our way back to the entrance, and walked into the village.
Fairhaven Water Garden
King Oak
Overlooking The Inner Broad
Green Man?
Well-Planted Jungle

We passed the two churches, which both share the same churchyard. The village green here was very pretty, with seats under a huge oak tree. We walked on down to the Kings Head pub, which is now a Chinese restaurant, and picked up their takeaway menu. It was far too early for dinner, but we decided that the staithe was too far away to make the journey back later that night. We walked back to Fairhaven, and decided to have tea. with some delicious carrot cake.
Entering South Walsham
South Walsham Cottages
Here On The Village Green
St. Mary's......
.....And St. Lawrence's

Had a really pleasant walk back to the boat, and walking back across the field I noticed the huge sky that you always get in Norfolk, bordered by a line of trees and cottages. You sometimes take the wild beauty of the place for granted, then it suddenly astounds you. Once back on the lane, we walked past some really pretty thatched cottages. It's a very long walk, but really is worth the effort, if you ever find yourself on Fleet Dike please try it for yourself.
Beautiful Norfolk Scenery

Later that evening, we ordered some Chinese takeaway, which was delivered to us just behind the staithe. The food was really tasty, but it was strange so sit on the boat, and forsake the bright lights of the village restaurant. We watched some DVDs and had a relative early night.
Moored Up On Fleet Dike